GPS News
FARM NEWS
Marshes, mills and Michelin stars: Spain's 'chef of the sea'
Marshes, mills and Michelin stars: Spain's 'chef of the sea'
By Valentin BONTEMPS
El Puerto De Santa Maria, Spain (AFP) Sept 20, 2023

As a child, Angel Leon spent hours fishing in the marshes of Cadiz in southwestern Spain -- and today the chef draws inspiration from this terrain for his three-star Michelin restaurant.

Leon, 46, has pushed the boundaries of seafood at Aponiente, serving up plankton rice, squid cheese and mussel pudding at the avant-garde eatery in El Puerto de Santa Maria, a fishing town in the heart of the Bay of Cadiz.

The sea is "an extraordinary pantry" that cooks often overlook, Leon told AFP, sporting a tattoo of a turtle on his forearm.

"The problem is that human beings are always selective" in the products they chose to eat, said the energetic chef, who believes in steering away from the latest fashions and suggesting "everything we find" in the ocean is likely to be edible.

The chef, who is also experimenting with new sustainable ingredients and innovations, is known in Spain as "el chef del mar" or "the chef of the sea".

Born in Jerez de la Frontera, Leon spent his childhood in the Bay of Cadiz where he would go fishing with his brother and father, a doctor, on weekends.

A poor student, Leon was passionate about fish and how to cook them, and decided to turn this passion into his profession.

As a teenager he enrolled at a Seville hotel and catering school, then earned his stripes in France at the acclaimed Le Chapon Fin restaurant in the southwestern city of Bordeaux.

- Tide mill restoration -

After spending time in Madrid and Toledo, in 2007 Leon returned to the Cadiz region and opened his own restaurant, Aponiente, aged 30.

His aim was to use the ingredients found in the bay for his menus.

The bet was risky, and the eatery struggled to draw customers -- until his efforts to use little-known marine ingredients were recognised in 2010 with his first Michelin star.

He was also ranked by the Wall Street Journal as one of the 10 best restaurants in Europe.

In 2015 Leon moved his restaurant to a tide mill dating from 1815, which he said he fell in love with immediately.

The 1,800-square-metre building, located on the heart of the salt pan and exposed to the ebb and flow of the ocean, was then in a state of ruin and the adjoining land was being used as a garbage dump.

Leon invested 2.5 million euros ($2.7 million) to fix up the building, which now features a contemporary decor that blends into the salt marsh landscapes that surround it.

Being in the heart of the marshes "allows people to understand why we cook the way we do," said Leon, who employs 70 people at his restaurant, located in a region with one of the highest unemployment rates in Europe.

- Open minds -

The restaurant's success has inspired others.

Since Aponiente opened, three other chefs from the province of Cadiz have been awarded a Michelin star, including its former head chef, Juanlu Fernandez.

Leon says he is now determined to open the "minds" of other gourmets.

He has embarked on new experiments to combine the protection of the environment with the search for new ingredients, exploring ways to adapt diets to the reality of global warming.

Leon is trying to domesticate eelgrass -- a plant with bright green ribbon-like leaves that grows in coastal marshlands, which produce edible grains dubbed "sea rice".

The grains are packed with protein as well as fibre and omega fatty acids, while the plant captures huge amounts of carbon dioxide.

Working with academics, Leon has so far succeeded in growing this "superfood" in the marshes of Cadiz, and is exploring its culinary uses.

It is not the first of his marine innovations to bear fruit. In 2008 he invented, along with researchers of Cadiz's marine research centre, a machine called "Clarimax", which uses seaweed to remove fat from broths.

Related Links
Farming Today - Suppliers and Technology

Subscribe Free To Our Daily Newsletters
Tweet

RELATED CONTENT
The following news reports may link to other Space Media Network websites.
FARM NEWS
Invasive species on the menu at London restaurant
London (AFP) Sept 20, 2023
A London restaurant is exploring whether eating invasive species such as grey squirrel, American Signal crayfish and Japanese knotweed could help fight their spread, but scientists remain sceptical. The idea behind several "invasive species supper clubs", the last of which was served on Tuesday at "zero waste" Silo restaurant in east London, is to "creatively popularise species that are detrimental to the environment", chef Douglas McMaster, who runs the establishment, told AFP. The omnipresent ... read more

FARM NEWS
US farmers, tech tycoons square off over plans for utopian city

Spain livestock farmers raise alarm over rise in wolf attacks

Marshes, mills and Michelin stars: Spain's 'chef of the sea'

Glyphosate: where is it banned or restricted?

FARM NEWS
Canceling noise to improve quantum devices

Five things to know about British chip champion Arm

SoftBank supremo eyes rare success with Arm IPO

TSMC plans $100 million investment in Arm IPO: board

FARM NEWS
Duke Field breaks ground on first electric aircraft charging station

US finds debris from missing F-35

U.S. military calls on public to help find stealth fighter jet lost in South Carolina

Ukrainian pilots test Swedish Gripen jets: government

FARM NEWS
Novel AI system enhances the predictive accuracy of autonomous driving

Tire maker honored for tackling electric car pollution

Taiwan's TSMC to help train German students for semiconductor careers

UK carmakers hope for delay to post-Brexit tariff

FARM NEWS
Asian markets struggle as traders prepare for higher rates

EU seeks to put brakes on China without hurting ties

Markets struggle on prospect of higher rates, eyes on BoJ

Markets sink, dollar gains as Fed hints at fresh rate hike

FARM NEWS
Arson turns Amazon reforestation project to ashes

Brazil court rules for Indigenous land rights in key case

Outcry stops building in 'world's largest greenbelt' around Toronto

Scientists rediscover small Brazil tree, 185 years on

FARM NEWS
NASA-built greenhouse gas detector moves closer to launch

SynMax announces acquisition of Gas Vista in energy and maritime intelligence push

Spire Global selected by Estuaire to monitor and reduce aviation emissions

Showcase your climate data visualisation talent with ESA

FARM NEWS
World Nano Foundation highlights nanotech's role in space materials science

Subscribe Free To Our Daily Newsletters




The content herein, unless otherwise known to be public domain, are Copyright 1995-2024 - Space Media Network. All websites are published in Australia and are solely subject to Australian law and governed by Fair Use principals for news reporting and research purposes. AFP, UPI and IANS news wire stories are copyright Agence France-Presse, United Press International and Indo-Asia News Service. ESA news reports are copyright European Space Agency. All NASA sourced material is public domain. Additional copyrights may apply in whole or part to other bona fide parties. All articles labeled "by Staff Writers" include reports supplied to Space Media Network by industry news wires, PR agencies, corporate press officers and the like. Such articles are individually curated and edited by Space Media Network staff on the basis of the report's information value to our industry and professional readership. Advertising does not imply endorsement, agreement or approval of any opinions, statements or information provided by Space Media Network on any Web page published or hosted by Space Media Network. General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) Statement Our advertisers use various cookies and the like to deliver the best ad banner available at one time. All network advertising suppliers have GDPR policies (Legitimate Interest) that conform with EU regulations for data collection. By using our websites you consent to cookie based advertising. If you do not agree with this then you must stop using the websites from May 25, 2018. Privacy Statement. Additional information can be found here at About Us.